The 'Stans - Almaty...The Final Day (22 August 2019)

I woke up determined to make it to Big Almaty Lake. This time a change in approach. I had contacted a friend back home and set up a Yandex account using their mobile number - I was then able to use the app on my phone to set up a journey to the top of the mountain, with waiting time, and then back down. All this for an estimated $10 - I'm now vindicated that i told the Kazakh yesterday to do one.

The Yandex arrives and I am driven to the top of the mountain in air conditioned comfort. I waited for the exact point on the route that I gave up yesterday. And with hindsight I was glad I did. I was barely 10% up the mountain. It would have taken 6/7 hours to get to the top and the same in return. It turns out that stopping and regrouping is sometimes the best strategy.

We reached the top of the Big Almaty Lake and my gosh it was worth it.

Having left the hostel early to get to the Lake, I had it for the most part to myself. With coffee in hand, from a little coffee van at the top, I explored the Lake. Passing the occasional Kazakh selfie hunter.

With my Yandex still waiting at the top, I clambered back to the top of the hill and took one last look at the Lake, breathing it all in. I can't explain just how turquoise the water was, the pictures only paint 50% of the scenery.

We arrived back at the Hostel. I immediately packed my bag, checked out and had another Yandex waiting to take me to my five star accommodation for my final night. Today was turning into a good day.

I checked in at the Reunion Park Hotel and immediately made use of the large bed and luxurious shower - it at least felt luxurious after a month of hostels. I ventured out and headed to Panilov Park, relatively nearby, to see the Ascension Cathedral.

The rest of the day was spent wandering the leafy streets of Almaty, enjoy the food and reminiscing on my time in Central Asia. Whenever I told anyone that I was visiting the 'Stans, I would always get the question 'why would you want to go there?'. I wanted an adventure and somewhere off the beaten track, an area that would surprise me. And I got everything I was searching for.

Turkmenistan was one of the strangest yet most enthralling places I have been. Darvaza was out of this world and Ashgabat was eerily beautiful. Uzbekistan was culturally and historically fascinating, from Khiva to Bukhara to Samarkand. Tajikistan was beautiful, glimpsing into Afghanistan on a five day road trip along the Pamir Highway. Kyrgyzstan was green and scenic. Kazakhstan was testing but ultimately rewarding - Big Almaty Lake was one of the most beautiful natural scenes that I have ever witnessed.

Hopefully this collection of thoughts and images will inspire at least one person to take a gamble on the 'Stans.

The 'Stans - Almaty (21 August 2019)

A new day, and surely this day can only get better right? Wrong.

I woke up early, keen to leave the hostel but also keen to fit a few things into my last days in Central Asia. Today's trip was to the Big Almaty Lake, and this was 'easily' accessible by public transport.

The bus stop to the Lake was a good 10km from the hostel, so I thought ahead and asked a girl in the hostel to book me a Yandex to take me to the bus stop. I was feeling quite smug at this point, almaty wouldn't beat me.

I was dropped off near the bus stop and I found the correct one easily enough. This bus was heaving. A good sign I was going in the right direction. All I had to do was stay on the bus until the final stop. Easy.

The bus got quieter and quieter, but I held my ground to the final stop. At this point I read there would be abundant taxis and buses to take me to the top. But there was nothing.I saw that everyone who left the bus had started walking up the hill, so I decided to follow.

I was aware that the walk to the top was hard and would take a couple of hours, but there were a couple of larger ladies in front of me also walking. How hard could it be. But everyone ahead of me started turning off in different directions. Not sure where they were going, I kept to the road which I assumed would take me to the top.

After an hour of walking, in 40 degree heat, with no end in sight and no signs to even indicate I was on the right road, I started hitching a rider. About 20 cars drove past me and not one stopped. Eventually, a beat up old car stopped and the chap said he could take me up. We bartered using his dusty windows as a canvas. He was offering to take me up for the equivalent of $50. This was an outrageous price and I told him exactly where he could go. I was livid. But I thought better than to further antagonise the already annoyed Kazakh driver.

I picked up a boulder and smashed it on the floor. At this point I realised I had failed to get to Almaty Lake and I turned around for the long depressing walk back to the bus stop. I boarded the bus and we headed back to the very start of the journey. Except this time I had no Yandex to take me back to the hostel.

I spent the rest of the day navigating back the 10km to the hostel, via a bars, coffee shops and restaurants.