With Ali's ridiculous price of $120+ for the ride to Aswan, I instead set off early to Luxor train station. A first class AC train costing 120 EGP (the equivalent to £6).
I walked along the main streets to the station and managed to bypass all touts - maybe they don't start until gone 8am? The train was surprisingly on time and the train of very good standards. I had read so many differing reviews of trains; on lateness and poor quality - I don't know what everyone was moaning about.
Arriving at Aswan felt like arriving at Baghdad. Zero touts (thank God), but the train arrived in the middle of prayer. Instead of the Azan, there were multiple tannoys broadcasting aggressive (though must Arabic sounds aggressive) preaching from the nearby mosques. The exit to the station was rammed with locals, changing trains and heading off into Aswan.
I walked down a side street, must reminiscent of a building site - scaffolding above me and sand below me. A child asked me for money, 'emshi' (go away). I head straight which takes me to the Nile and my accommodation was in the middle of the Nile, on Elephantine Island. 'Maps.Me' told me that there were two Nile crossings - my first attempt go me rebuffed trying to board the private Movenpick ferry. Sweaty from carrying my big bag, I made the walk to the next pier - locals helpfully told me to look out the for the KFC. I pass 4/5 touts on the 20 minute walk, all hawking boat rides along the Nile for no doubt exorbitant prices.
I finally find the pier and await the local ferry. 5EGP (25p) to make the crossing. This is the tourist price, locals pay about 1EGP for the ride.
A short 2 minute ride and I'm on Elephantine Island. A small Nubian village, which was a far cry from the Winter Palace in Luxor. From $100 a night to $10 a night. Walking through the maze of dirt paths, past goats and children I find the Mango Guest House:
For $10 it was perfect. Hopefully they will get enough guests to complete the building of the 3rd and 4th floors. For lunch I headed to Nubian Dreams, that was conveniently located overlooking the ferry pier. The food was expensive by Egyptian standards, but was super tasty and filling. This became my usual spot for the next couple of days:
With some time on my hands, I head across the islands to the Elephantine 'pyramid' and local museum and ruins. On the way through an old Nubian man stopped me in my track, I thought he may just want a chat but of course he had something to sell. He owned a café above his house and he seemed like a nice chap, so I said I would pop in for a drink after the pyramid. Coincidentally, right before the museum, the old chap's son was hanging around and I spoke to him for a while and took his number about a potential boat ride.
I'd just come from the Valley of the Kings, so was unable to enjoy the Elephantine 'island'. The museum was tiny and the ruins were just ruins. If you'd have only seen Elephantine Island, they may have been more spectacular but I was well and truly tombed out.
I left the ruins and straight away recognised a face at the exit, waiting. The old Nubian chap. He saw me and made a bee-line, he must have not had customers for quite some time. I was happy to have a sit down and a drink. He took me into his house, his boys were chilling and one of them showed me a small, live crocodile stuck in a bucket. I was led upstairs to a crappy 'Nubian museum', basically just this old chap's hoard of things he hasn't thrown away in his lifetime. Unimpressed, I asked for a mint tea...50EGP. This was the straw that broke the camel's back - this should cost about 5EGP. I told him no, and walked down the stairs and out of his front door. He tried to pursue me, by my normal walking pace was no match for this old man's legs. Victory was mine.
For dinner I went to a different restaurant come shisha lounge. The food was ok, there was Egyptian football and the loudest Egyptian music on some knock off speakers. It looked like they were expecting a biggun on Elephantine, but instead there was just a small group of 10 of us in there. I didn't stay much longer after eating and headed back to the Mango Hostel.
I had spoken to the owner earlier about organising a trip to Abu Simbel in the morning - some 4 hours drive away. Booked with ease, the only issue was the 4am leaving time.
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