Our passports were checked and we were allowed through the gate and down into no man's land until we reached a hut that we needed to pass through to get our passports stamped. There was no queue to get into this hut. Just a gaggle of Tajik local women, a group of Chinese tourists and a few backpacker. The Tajik local women did not concede an inch (big ladies) and we ended up pushing our way through this hut and out of the other end.
Now into Tajikistan, the Belgian and I part ways and agree to meet in Dushanbe before our Pamir trip. Simon finds a car taking him to his destination and I start asking around for a car to Dushanbe. I find a man who offers to take me for around $40, I say no to this and agree to buy one seat in the car. I wait for about 20 minutes and realise that no other solo traveller are coming my way. All the tourists seems to have pre-arranged transport. I buckle and negotiate a price of around $30 to Dushanbe, a journey of around 4/5 hours. A beige Vauxhall Astra is my ride for the journey.
The driver was a nice old Uzbek bloke. We stopped off at his house (I think) en route and he picked up a flash drive with music that he thought I'd like. It was an EDM treasure trove and the driver turned up the volume. At one point we are stopped by the police and the police officer comes to my window and asks me whether I am ok - must have looked like a kidnapping victim. At one point we stop at a makeshift Tajik roadside shop with the drinks being cooled by the water flowing down the rocks - my driver asks me to buy him an energy drink. I wholeheartedly agree. The last thing I need is this guy falling asleep on me:
Tajikistan then starts to open up before my eyes, such a spectacular journey:
My driver kept insisting on taking photos of me when we had our strategic pit stops. Many gems like this in my phone (pretty tired by this point, but we persevere):
It wouldn't be a Central Asian car journey with at least one crash en route:
We stop at one natural beautiful place, we just happens to be after the 'Tunnel of Death' (or the Anzob Tunnel). The Daily Mail describes it as: 'The pitch black three-mile underground road linking Tajikistan's two main cities which is one of the most terrifying places on earth to drive. With the risk of falling rocks, blind potholes and even carbon monoxide poisoning, it's easy to see where this treacherous road earned its nickname.'
Essentially it is an unlit and un-ventilated tunnel with the odd pothole. If you're driving in a car, then it's not the worst ride. If you're cycling through it, you have a death wish. As we got out the car at the other end I chatted to a couple of cyclists - one put her bike on a van and got driven through, the other chap cycles through and looked grimier for it.
After more hours of driving and descending from the mountains, we finally reach the outskirts of Dushanbe. The driver asks me for a couple more dollar to go into Dushanbe and to my hostel. I agree and he starts making calls to the hostel to find out where it's located. I try telling him many times to just use my GPS, but he refuses and keeps calling. Eventually I win and I direct him to TopChan Hostel, but alas, the hostel does not exist. We both get out the car and walk around where it should be and ask locals for help - no one has heard of it.
The driver tells me to get back into the car and he will drive around some more. He doesn't seem to understand that this hostel does not exist. I take my bags and wish him good day. Luckily Maps.ME has offline hotels and hostels and I choose a highly rated one and hope for the best - City Hostel.
I hail a cab and am prepared for a standard taxi argument. But, this taxi is...air conditioned. And...metered. And the taxi driver actually turns on the meter. I love Dushanbe. (This still bring a smile to face as I write this months later).
I arrive at the City Hostel and it is fine. I find a Turkish restaurant just a few minutes walk away called Merve and head down for a feed. I haven't eaten since breakfast and order a lot of grilled meats. It's delightful. I had back to the hostel and head to bed.
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